
As much as I adore homemade jam, I’ve always considered it an enormous gamble. The more I invested in time and ingredients the higher were the odds I would end up with a runny syrup or a rubbery mass better suited for Gummi Bears than toast. Perfect preserves eluded me.
Neither the old-fashioned cookbooks I inherited from my mom nor the new crop of canning guides and web sites were much help. Most of their recipes relied on commercial pectin and called for specific amounts of sugar and fruit, stated in cups. All advised checking whether the jam had set by watching it drip off a spoon or cling to a chilled plate — imprecise measures at best for the uninitiated.
Then I ran across Russ Parsons’ advice in the Los Angeles Times this summer and everything began to make sense. He offered a simple ratio for making small batches of jam using equal weights of sugar and whatever fruit you have on hand. Because you cook a limited amount of preserves at a time in a non-stick skillet, it’s easy to tell whether it’s ready just by watching the syrupy mixture become thick and glossy as you stir. Flavors are also fresher. (more…)