If mention of olive oil turns your thoughts to Italy, it’s time to expand your horizons.  Some of the freshest most flavorful olive oil on the market today comes from California.

For more than two decades the state’s  boutique producers of high end oils have been getting all the attention.  One of the most popular and widely distributed, McEvoy Ranch, commands more than $20 for a 12.7 ounce bottle of its  intense, pungent oils from Tuscan varieties of olives.

Now, California is building a reputation for high quality oils delivered at a more modest price, thanks to intensive planting techniques, mechanical harvesting and a proliferation of high tech mills.   Although many may be familiar with the oils from the mammoth California Olive Ranch, with mills in Oroville and Corning, far fewer are likely to recognize the products of the state’s number two producer, Corto Olive.  That’s because most of its oil production is bottled under private labels for the likes of Zabar’s and Sam’s Club. (more…)

Life has thrown me a few curve balls in recent days.  One of the most inconvenient was the loss of power, water and access to the files on my desktop computer for nearly a week.

I do have an appetizing food photo to go with this post, truly I do.  Sadly, it’s still locked up on the other computer, though. So I’m going to beg your indulgence and offer this shot of the culprit in all this—the 200-year-old fir tree that decided to depart this life during a blustery storm last week.  It uprooted and fell with a tremendous thud, crushing our water tank, blocking the road and taking down power and cable lines.

Thankfully, I had already worked out this recipe for oricchette with broccoli rabe.   Just thinking about this dish brightens my day.

It’s a variation on the Italian classic and one of the best ways I know to use that leafy vegetable also known as rapini.  The name of the pasta translates to “little ears” and the wilted greens of the sauce cling nicely to the small, cupped shapes.  Penne, ziti or rotelle will do the job nearly as well, however, if you can’t find oricchete at your market. (more…)

As summer begins to wind down and the days get shorter, even dedicated cooks would rather spend less time in the kitchen and more time playing outside while we still can.

This colorful pasta, bursting with the bold flavors of ripe tomatoes, olives, capers, and — yes — anchovies, has become one of my summer favorites.  It’s super simple, versatile, and only requires enough time in front of the stove to boil a pot of pasta. (more…)

Whatever happened to spring? The season seems to have leapfrogged from winter to summer when I wasn’t looking. One night I was snuggling under a down comforter and the next I was wondering why I still had flannel sheets on the bed. The thermometer shot to over 90 when I was out hiking yesterday and, around here, that’s pretty hot even for summer.

No matter, the comforts of spring remain in the market. I’m grateful that I can still savor the bright, grassy flavor and crisp texture of fresh, locally-grown asparagus. Even better, the prices are coming down.

When asparagus first arrives at the farmers market, I’m happy just to eat it as plain as possible. It’s the first fresh taste of wonderful produce to come as the days get longer and the weather gets warmer. Nothing more than a little sweet butter is required. (more…)

I know, I know. The rest of the country is shivering. Just look at those hundreds of thousands of hardy souls at the Capitol Mall, all bundled up with hats pulled down over their ears and scarves wrapped up to their chins as they witnessed history earlier today. The inauguration of our nation’s first African American president, a man who brings hope to so many, was an incredible moment and an inspiring sight. But it looked unbearably cold.

There’s a reason I live in California, albeit in the northern half of the state, which does get a taste of real winter now and then. Even so, it’s been unseasonably warm for the last week. With temperatures in the mid-70s, it’s felt as if spring had come and summer was on its way.

In the market, though, there’s no avoiding the fact that it’s winter. We’re down to root vegetables and hardy greens in the produce section unless we want to buy imported vegetables, which never taste as good as they look anyway.

This is the most challenging time of the year for anyone who wants to cook and eat seasonally. Thank goodness for canned tomatoes. They bring the bright flavors of summer to our winter meals.

I’ve been experimenting lately with a baked pasta that would bring out the best in winter produce while delivering the fresh, acidic jolt of ripe tomato. (more…)